Or just the beginning
Vilasari to O Logoso, October 19, 2016
Today was a 14 mile hike that started out in the mist of a silent trail through the hillside. It wasn’t eerie at all, but very comforting. Someone said it was like walking through a cloud and being hugged by God.
The trail is much quieter and has a different feel. Not many pilgrims go on after Santiago so the towns and services are all a bit smaller. Here is our Albuergue and town for tonight.
Santiago to Albergue Vilasari, October 18, 2016
My dogs are not only barking, but howling! We left around 7, with the first 1/2 hour walking through the quiet empty streets of Santiago.
We quickly found a place open serving cafe. They aren’t typically open but on the Camino route you can find them open this early for pilgrims. We walked out of town and looked for the familiar yellow arrows and markers.
The difference is, is the the markers begin to count down the miles that you have to do to make it to the ocean.
It was a very long day, a lot of ups and downs but the day was a beautiful day for hiking. We came across this wonderful water fountain for pilgrims to soak their feet. It was cold, but refreshing and helped us with the last 5 k.
Santiago, October 17, 2016
It was a sleep in and rest day……and guess who I ran into in front of the Cathedral? This guy is everywhere!!
We met up with Rick, Kevin, Donna and Lainy. Had a wonderful time getting acquainted and heading out to the ocean in the morning. Going to try and make the 4 day trip in 3-which means 18 to 20 miles tomorrow. You’ll know when I do, if I make it!
Burgos to Santiago, October 16, 2016
Today we left for Santiago on the train. It will take us about 7 1/2 hours to get there-the same distance it took me 3 weeks to walk on my first Camino. My feet are enjoying the rest and It is nice to sit and watch the scenery go by. I recognize the stops: Astorga, Leon, Pomferada….and take the opportunity to read my blog posts when walking through the towns before.
San Juan Ortega to Burgos, October 15, 2016
Burgos is the end of the beginning and I now go onto the beginning of the end. It was May 19, 2014 when I last was here and it seems like only yesterday.
The Archaeological Site of Atapuerca is a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Site. The earliest human fossils and tools known in Europe were found in the nearby caves. The site was inscribed by UNESCO in 2000.
Here is a video on the findings. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g5gMuMJYe60
Their are memorials built outside the town to signify the importance of the findings and honoring our ancestors.
The Albuergue was conveniently located nearby as always. It was one of the most modern one we stayed in. The cost was only 5 euro but the view of history outside our window was priceless.
The evening turned out to be one of my most favorite moments. All the women that I had been hiking with off and on for the last two weeks magically appeared and we gathered for one last time. We were from Germany, Canada, Denmark, Switzerland and the United States. Strong, beautiful and inspiring. I could not have asked for a more perfect way to celebrate my little moment of history making in my life.
Beldorado to San Juan Ortega, October 14, 2016
Today was a long 15 miler but the terrain changed so much it made it enjoyable.
The trail went through a few small towns, and I mean small. Some of them with inhabitants of 100 people. At one point I came over a hill and heard Elvis music. I can upon this area with stumps of wood to sit and rest.
The nights albergue was in a monastery built by Saint John of Ortega himself, with the help of his friend and fellow saint, Domingo de la Calzada, around 1142 as a help point to the pilgrims.
It had two rooms with 50 beds, a little cafe and a church. Mass was at 6 and the priest invited pilgrims to come up a read the readings and prayer of the faithful. When you walked in you could get a copy of the mass in your own language to follow along as the priest said the mass in Spanish. So, when the pilgrims came up to read it was said in their own language. It was truly wonderful.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado, October 13, 2016
Happy Anniversay Mom and Dad!
Today was a 14 mile hike through a lot of wheat farms. A lot of them.
Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, October 12, 2016.
Today’s 13 mile hike was through beautiful farmlands and vineyards. We are now in the La Rioja region, renowned for its superlative wines. And I will attest to that! In fact, Kings and noblemen were proving the Camino through this region as early as the 11th century as a means of exporting its famous wine and wares through Europe-and a way to attract artists and stonemasons to build all of the amazing cathedrals and monuments I have been seeing along the route. It was in this region where the defeat of the Moors happened which gave a great boost to Christianity and by extension, the Camino de Santiago.
Okay, I know you want to here about the chickens. Well, The story goes that in the 14th century, a German 18-year-old named Hugonell, from Xanten, goes on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela with his parents. A Spanish girl at the hostel where they were staying makes sexual advances toward Hugonell; Hugonell rejects her advances. Angry at this, the girl hides a silver cup in the German’s bag and then informs the authorities that the youth had taken it. Hugonell is sentenced to the gallows, in accordance with the laws of Alfonso X of Castile.
The parents sadly decide to examine their son’s body, still hanging on the gallows, but suddenly hear his voice –he tells them that Saint Dominic has saved his life. His parents quickly make their way to Santiago de Compostela to see the magistrate. The magistrate, who is at the time eating dinner, remarks: “Your son is as alive as this rooster and chicken that I was feasting on before you interrupted me.” And in that moment, the two birds jump from the plate and begin to sing and crow happily.
And as early as 1350, it has been documented that there is a cock and a hen in the cathedral.
Naverette to Najera, October 11, 2016
I had a wonderful conversation on a park bench tonight with Tamiara. It was after meandering through the town of Najera and we decided to sit awhile on a bench near the river. We talked about how the Camino represents life-your own life.
You are always moving forward. The miles have past and you don’t know what is ahead. The only thing you know is the road underneath your feet and in that moment there’s so much to look around and be thankful for – if you let it.
If I only thought of the next town, the next albergue I would miss the moment the sunrise touched the hillside, the taste of fresh grapes growing on the vine just before harvest, the unexpected bench that appears to offer rest, and the opportunity to bless and wish everyone that passes me a good journey.
There is a special moment that only comes with solitude when it’s just you your thoughts and with the Lord. For me it is the morning. It is quiet and the only sound you hear is your own footsteps.
I’ve had some wonderful conversations with her and have experienced that moment where you knew you are exactly where you’re supposed to be.
Yes, there are the struggles of hills, the pain of blisters and sleepless nights because of snoring and the wrestling of sleeping bags. My pack of burdens and regret gets very heavy at times. These too are the moments that give meaning to your life.
‘Cause what if your blessings come through raindrops
What if Your healing comes through tears
What if a thousand sleepless nights are what it takes to know You’re near
What if trials of this life are Your mercies in disguise.
Laura Song, Blessing
And, don’t forget to look for those funny times and laugh and smile as much as you can.
Here’s the only picture of the day that I know you won’t forget. Even for a moment.
Viana to Navarette, October 10
A quaint, beautiful and lovely little Camino town that captured my heart. There was something so warm and welcoming about the town as soon as you started to walk down the cobbled streets looking for your albergue.
The Lord keeps watch over you as you come and go, both now and forever.
Los Arcos to Viana, October 9, 2016
Yes, it was one of those Camino Days, starting one way, ending another. It is early Sunday morning around 730 as we headed out on our 12 mile walk. And this is how it started. From behind me:
I put in my ear buds, hit shuffle, and the song that started to play was the song Good Morning, from Mandisa:
It’s a good morning!
Wake up to a brand new day
I’m stepping, I’m stepping, stepping on my way
You give me strength,
You give me just what I need
And I can feel the hope that’s rising in me.
It’s a good morning
The path took us mostly on natural paths and dirt tracks through open farmland with little reminders along the way of how much this country cares for pilgrims.
Ended up sitting in the shadows of the ruins laughing and sharing stories with other pilgrims from different parts of the world and finding a wonderful connection with three wonderful ladies- Anne, Dawn and Jade. We were all going to go to dinner but the restaurants were closed until 8 and it was only 5pm.
And as The Camino provides we saw this sign
Ok, I will be honest, the carrot cake, cushy chairs and candels were a big draw. We sat and meditated while our hosts read passages from the Bible about trusting in our path and place in the world. Afterwards, we sat, drank tea and continued to share, not as pilgrims, but as new friends.
Estella to Los Arcos, October 8, 2016
Ok, it is only 830 in the morning, and there is a line, so I had better get in it!
But my water bottles are filled with water! What do to, what to do….oh, how nice of them to put a vending machine with glasses and bottles. So of course I bought one, it would be rude not to (ok the guy next to me demonstrated the water part)
Today’s hike was just beautiful and the wine fountain was just the first gift. Look at this scenery.
Came across this cafe for breakfast. A cafe con leche and tortilla every day so far, but who is counting.
After dinner I was able to sit out in the courtyard, listen to the belles chime and talk to my Mom and Dad. The greatest gift of all.
Puente La Reina to Estella, October 7, 2016
Our first few steps on our 14 mile hike took us over Puenta de Arga, Bridge of the Queen. In the 11th century there was only one way of crossing the River Arga, by hiring someone to take you across in their boat. Unfortunately, seeing an opportunity to make money, these people overcharged the pilgrims for the privilege of being ferried across the river.
Queen Doña Mayor the wife of Sancho III ordered a bridge to be built over the river and thus gave the town its name. I thought it was interesting to be standing on this midieval with a modern bridge in the distance. Which one do you think will last longer?
Cizur Menor-Puente La Reina, October 6
Where the path of the wind crosses that of the stars.
The first part of today’s hike was a climb up Alto del Perdon, the Hill of Forgiveness. At the top is a sculpture depicting a number of Pilgrims either on foot or on horseback as they make their way along the Camino to Santiago.
We made it to Utera for lunch. When was the last time you got a Coke in a Coke bottle in a Coke glass?
Felicia was the sister of Guillén of Aquitaine who, following the family tradition started by William the 10th Duke of Aquitaine, decided to embark on a pilgrimage to Santiago. Upon returning from her pilgrimage she could not settle back into her life of privilege and wanted to help those less fortunate than herself. Leaving the French court she headed back to Navarra to live as a recluse and servant in a village called Amocáin.
Her family was understandably furious and her brother, Guillén, was dispatched to try and bring her back. After much searching Guillén finally tracked her down to the village of Obanos, but despite much begging and pleading Felicia refused to return to France with her brother. He was so angry at this response that in a fit of fury he stabbed his sister with a dagger.
Racked with guilt Guillén decided, as a penance, that he would follow in his sister’s footsteps and make a pilgrimage to Santiago. Once he reached Santiago he now understood why his sister had felt the way she did and he too decided to dedicate his life helping others. On returning home and still inconsolable over the death of his sister, he returned to Obanos and built the shrine Nuestra Señora de Arnotegui where he lived out his days helping other pilgrims and dedicating his life to prayer. Both brother and sister were made saints.
First, thank you for all your birthday wishes. The Camino has caught up to us, so we thought we would catch up to it by taking a rest day. I have come down with a cold and Tammy has some good ole blisters, and as God would have it there is a Marriott a little over a mile off the trail. We have built in a few days with the anticipation of needing a day like this.
It gives me the time to refect on just how fortunate I am for my family, my friends and my faith, each giving me the support and strength to live my life’s journey.
I also have been thinking of those that have recently died and prayed many times on the trail for them and to them.
My Aunt Pat was a vivacious women with a strong love of family, especially her sister, my Mom. When the two would be together the giggling and the laughter was contagious. I will never forget our time together at the shore or visits to Chicago.
Marie Tumalo was the daughter of my fathers best friend from college. Our two families grew up together as kids spending time together at their place in Sea Isle City. Before she died, she hosted her own birthday party. I have sent many prayers of thanks to her for having that get together and feel selfish doing so. Yes, it was sad to say goodbye, but it gave me a chance to say hello again to others in her family that I know will be in my life forever. Hmmm, maybe she had that in mind all along?
And to Cal, may you continue to climb the highest peaks and bless us all from above.
Tomorrow, we head to Puente La Reina, a 12 mile walk. With a good nights rest and a renewed spirit we will once again be on the trail with the other pilgrims.
God bless you all and a very Happy day to you too.
Larrasoana to Cizur, Tuesday, October 4
We are looking forward to a shorter 14 mile walk. The weather has been fantastic and today will be the same. I thought I would share with you a typical day.
We try and rise about 630 to 7. It typically is not a problem since the other pilgrims are doing the same. And, since you are sleeping in a room with 15 – 25 other people once one person starts to move around everyone begins to follow. We get on the road by 730 and would like to start earlier but it does not get light out until after 8, the first part is in the dark.
In 2-3 miles you begin to pray for a little town to come your way. Today we came around the corner and were geated by a little oasis.
The trail took us through Pamplona. This is pic of the Portal de Zumalacarregi, also called Portal de Francia. It was built in 1563 and it was where all pilgrims from neighboring France entered and welcomed.
A little about where you stay. There are Albergues along the trail every 5-6 km. Some are private and some are run by the municipal. The municipal is less expensive are first come first serve and cost around 10 eruo. You get a bed, typically a bunk, and a pillow.
The first thing you do-take a shower and get your bed ready. There is always a restaurant nearby that will serve pilgrim meals starting at 7. After dinner folkes read, journal and chat using whatever language you can to have a conversation. Lights go out at 10 though most pilgrims are in bed way before then dreaming of the day ahead.
Roncesvalles-Larrasoana, Monday October 2
It was another long day, logging in over 17 miles, that’s about 55,000 steps for you Fitbit folks. It was a trail that took us through some beautiful towns where the only place open is a cafe for pilgrims to stop and grab some tortilla and cafe con leche.
In between towns the trail went through lovely woods, over hill and dale-a lot of over hill! We are anticipating our visit to Pomplomatomorrow and took advantage of a friend we met on the trail. Literally on the trail. Instead of running with the bulls we decided to walk with the cows.
St Jean to Roncevaux
Let me see how to tell you about the climb today with out swearing or adult crying. There was both. All from me of course. How about if I can actually get you to experience it. Ok, go to the gym and get on a treadmill. Crank to the highest setting, sling 25 lbs on your back and start to walk for, oh let’s start out slow–3 hours. Any adult tears yet? No, how about 7 hours. Here is a visual:
And here are better ones:
I am a bit late on blogging. It has been a bit different this time- navigating the distances and where to stay, but our first night was planned ahead of time and a great send off.
We left Rochester on Friday to Paris, and after a 4 hour lay over flew to Bairtz. A 4o minute car ride later we were in St. Jean de Pied Port. It is a 16th century walled city at is the foothills of the Pyrenees. It was the defensive foot-hold with wars against Spain.
Today, it has a population of 1800 that serve tourists, hill walkers, and pilgrims. It has become the principle gateway to the Camino and the tradition starting point for pilgrims all over world.
We got our Credential del Peregrino and welcomed advice – in mostly part English part french- on directions out of town, water stops, and a limitless speech on how steep the climb is and to take it very slow. I was asked by the elderly women that was helping me if I understood anything she said. I reached back to 8th grad french class and shyly admitted “un peu, madam, merci beaucoup.” I received a warm smile and my first “Beun Camino”. My first gift of the journey.